Recently, the MRCA (Midwest Roofing Contractors Association) issued a warning bulletin regarding TPO roof failures caused by sun’s UV. You can read more about it on our original TPO Roofing page, as well as my commentary to this bulletin.

At the same time, major roofing distributors are shamelessly pushing TPO into the market and onto roofing contractors without much regard for home and building owners. And bear in mind, because of low prices and “same cool roof” and “welded seams” qualities as PVC roofing has, TPO roofing is now the fastest growing commercial roofing product.

Here is a good example – pictures below will show you “manufacturer’s” stand showing TPO roof designed for residential roofing contractors.

Why residential roofing contractors? Well, the way I was told, these are the roofers who can’t afford to spend $12,000 on hot-air welding equipment, so the roof manufacturer created a system so these guys too could jump on TPO band-wagon.

(The TPO stand above, is displaying outside corner flashing, inside corner flashing, pipe boot, and drip-edge details. When I asked about the caulking along the seams, i was told it’s not caulking. It’s seam tape )

Here comes the best part! This TPO roof system is put together with … no, not hot air. Seams are primed and a seam tape is used to seal overlaps! But, it gets better – since there is no uncured flashing material in TPO world, and these “shingle-bangers” don’t have Liesters (hot air welders) nor do they want to buy them, since cheapest one – hand welder – is $450 before tax. So, this manufacturer uses white EPDM uncured flashing for all detail work such as inside / outside corners, posts, curbs (skylights, chimneys, roof hatches, HVAC equipment, etc.). EPDM rubber on TPO – really?

So basically, here is what you – the roof owner get: Untrained, inexperienced roofing contractor, installing a roof system (TPO roofing) which is unproven and there is a good chance it will fail, using flashing materials made for a different roofing system (EPDM rubber roof). And you loose the only real potential benefit of TPO roof – hot-air welded seams, since now all your seams are glued together, just like rubber.

So I want to know who wins? The manufacturers, the distributors, and partially the roofing contractors – but not the homeowner. Why? Manufacturer sells the membrane and accessories, while does not warranty the product since the contractor putting it down, in not trained / certified. Distributors will always get their cut, and contractors who screw up their work, usually disappear. So you, the roof owner will be left to pick up the slack on repairs – kind of sad I think…

Excerpt from TPO roofing discussion at Roofing.com forum:

The post bellow, is my reaction to recent discussions at Roofing.com – one about Pictures of failing TPO roofs, and another one, which started as a homeowner’s question about IB roof, and turned into a discussion about TPO vs PVC roofing.

If you do not feel like reading the two Roofing.com posts linked above, I will mention that Donl is a site admin at Roofing.com and Cerberus is a very knowledgeable (in my opinion) roofing consultant from Texas, and is an active participant in Roofing.com discussions.

The reason why I’m posting my response here – well, I feel that putting it on my blog instead of at Roofing.com will benefit you much more. There, only interested roofing contractors will read it and then, the post will disappear in a week or so.

To Cerberus and Donl:

Guys, I respect your knowledge and experience, of which you have more than I do. At the same time, it seems strange to me that you both defend TPO so actively – here is why:

Putting IB Roofs aside, I do believe that TPO is a bad product (here in US). But besides that notion I have to say that although these pictures ( http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/559881410NjElbu ) are from ’97 and the membrane was made around 1990, what has changed?

Also, it should be noted the sheets some are showing as failed TPO are from the early years of TPO roofing before there were ASTM testing criteria. Things have changed, so someone showing a failed TPO membrane from the 1990′s is like me showing a failed Carlisle EPDM roof from back when they were using N-100 Lap Adhesive instead of EP-95 or Seam Tapes; it is deceptive!

Cerberus – when you point out that it was one of the original TPO membranes that failed, do you really know what we as industry are dealing with now?

Do you know what exactly is sold at a local Bradco or ABC? Which formulation it is and how long it will last? Not a single TPO manufacturer will tell you what you are buying – they will never admit that they have a problem, unless it is a HUGE f-up.

Can you possibly know when this TPO will fail or will it last 15-20-25 years. No, you can’t know that, judging from what the TPO manufacturers are doing, which is changing the formulation every few years. And why? Is it because the previous formulation failed? And maybe to put even more fillers in the product to make it cheaper?

As much as I don’t like EPDM rubber roofing, as a flat roofing product, at least with it you know what you are dealing with: Membrane won’t fail. It will be the seams that will start leaking. So you can plan accordingly.

With TPO, you have:

- premature curing
- seam failures
- loss of thickness
- and now we find out that “some” TPO’s can’t take the UV

Yes, TPO is taking over commercial roofing market, and as you Cerberus rightfully pointed out – merely because of its low price and Cool Roof / Welded seams features…

Don’t know about you, but I won’t touch TPO just because I can’t put my name on it.

Do understand that I’d love to work with it – it costs much less than IB and I can get it locally. And because it’s cheaper, it would be MUCH easier for me to sell it! Instead I have to fight the competition which sells both rubber and TPO for much less than I can.

But what do I do when it fails, or the seams come apart, or the water separates the sheet through wicking scrim?

I go with a product that I personally can trust – not something that seems good on paper and is cheaper and easier shove onto customer.

And tell me this Cerberus. When I was asking people on this forum for good pictures of failing TPO roofs, you asked me: ” “Why? What are you trying to do?”

Well, I feel and know that TPO roofs are failing (some are here in Boston, and I can’t talk about it) but manufacturers won’t let people talk about it and specifiers cant say that – yes, TPO roofs are failing – because they already specified 1000s of squares. And roofing contractors won’t talk… and now one can say names. And I would probably also keep my mouth shut if I had a lot to loose .. fortunately I don’t work with TPO … And when I work with PVC, I know that it does work. I repaired an old IB (7 yrs. old) and it welded just fine. I repaired old Sarnifil (20+ yrs. old) with IB and it welded almost just fine. I even repaired a cracked Trocal (about 25+ yrs. old) roof with IB and after cleaning off the dirt, it welded just fine. So yea, plasticizers may leech out, membrane me shatter (and actually does when it’s Trocal ) and so on and so forth, but PVC works!

So what I was trying to do is to get information / evidence (pictures) of PVC and TPO roofs that are failing.

And you know what – in the end, it will come out. Or manufacturers will bite the bullet, quietly replace failed roofs and finally get the formula right (by not removing the components that make the system work)… but they will make less money…

Just my opinion…

Additional materials about PVC and TPO roofing:  TPO Roof failures.

TPO vs. PVC conversation – continued on Feb. 23, 2010

Quoted text is the response from Cerberus posted 0n Feb. 22, 2010:

And while you addressed your post to both myself and Donl, you seem to actually be directing the post at me. So, here it is in a nutshell.

1st – I’m not totally 100% comfortable with TPO yet, but that is because as a consultant I like something with a long successful track record. I know that TPO roofing is in its infancy, and like EPDM, Mod Bit, and yes, even PVC, systems in their infancy tend to have problems that need to be ironed out. In the meantime, as a specifier I am required by local codes to specify a roof with 70+% reflectivity and .70+ emissivity. In other words, I can choose between TPO and Derbibrite since PVC membrane isn’t popular in Houston.

2nd – If I was going to use a PVC roof, it would only be Sarnafil. However, now that it is Sika-Sarnafil how do we know they won’t play with the formulation? You asked me that question about TPO, so I am turning it around on you. Afterall, the first thing Firestone did when they purchased Rhoflex mod. bit. was change the formulation and make it cheaper in both quality and price.

I did address both you and Donl. Its just that Donl did not really defend TPO – more like bashed IB 

Anyway, one by one:

Am I starting a witch hunt? NO! … I know of enough TPO failures and some big ones here in New England, but I’m not at liberty to disclose them and can’t compromise my sources.

I really don’t care that much for TPO – I understand that people want to save money and will 99% of the time go with a cheap option – not quality. This is especially true in commercial market, which you (Cerberus) represent. In residential roofing things are different and TPO guys don’t know how to market to homeowners – therefore I don’t care much about TPO unless we are bidding on the same, usually commercial roof.

My problem with TPO is fundamental – until manufacturers stop “scamming” their customers (roof owners and contractors) by putting out crap products, I will have a problem with TPO. When they make TPO a good product, I will like it, but it won’t be as comparative, and PVC will kick its butt Pictures I needed as visual content.

Now about specifying practices: Basically from your last post I conclude that you will specify a roof that you are “not totally 100% comfortable with TPO yet” because local codes requires roof to be 70% cool and people are not willing to pay premium for PVC.

Also you as a roofing consultant know more than most people here do, and certainly much more than your “customers” – that’s why they hire you. I don’t understand why you would “withhold” information about TPO from your customers? Both Good and Bad.

Why did I use term “withhold”? If you told them about high risk potential of their TPO roof failing withing 7-10 years, they would not buy it. Therefore, I assume you do not enlighten your customers.

I want to stress the point that recent MRCA advisory about TPO roof failures concerns mainly the southern US – your territory with high temps and constant UV exposure.

Bottom line – TPO gets specified because it’s cheap – not because its good, and at the expense of building owners.

I don’t specify mod. bit., TPO, BUR, or any one roof for every building, and I certainly hope you aren’t only selling PVC for your low-sloped roofs. To do so either shows you are limited by the manufacturer’s approvals you can get, or lack of knowledge about other types of roofs.

Maybe I do lack both knowledge or manufacturer’s approvals 

You know – I can buy pretty much any roof I want – TPO / PVC / EPDM or even mod. bit. without manufacturer’s approvals. I won’t. I won’t install rubber because it will leak (not right away of course, but still). I won’t install Mod. Bit. … well I never did and don’t want to learn because in my opinion it’s inferior – those seams will separate and roof will once again leak TPO I just don’t trust. So that leaves PVC which I’m very comfortable with and, since we do not do skyscrapers, it fits our needs 99% of the time. Only once we had a roof for which PVC would not work, but the customer was not willing to pay $2000/sq of Soprema liquid-applied (not coating) – He wanted Rubber for $450/sq. Well I think that’s what he got .

So yes – most of the time I will prescribe PVC.

Term “green” has become very popular during last decade and consequently overused, misused and abused. Anything and everything can be called green today, and to make money and to attract environmentally-conscious customers, people will call themselves and their products green, even when it is just a blatant lie to confuse uneducated consumers. Being a roofing contractor, I will concentrate on roofing products and services. For example, many asphalt shingles manufacturers now offer “cool” and “green”  shingle products – to me it’s just a shameless tactics to sell same NOT-green crap  that is painted different color (usually some shade of white). Excuse me, but asphalts shingles are not green, period! The are made with asphalt, can’t be recycled and end up in landfills in 10-15 years.

Since term green is very vague and can be interpreted in many ways, I’ll offer my vision of “green” – green roofing contractor to be exact, which describes the way I think and try to operate our roofing business. I want to mention that when I say “green roofing contractor”, it has nothing to do with with a roofing contractor installing green roofs or roof-top gardens. To me a contractor installing roof-top vegetation is a highly-specialize landscaping company, but not a roofing contractor (unless they also install the actual flat roofing membrane to waterproof the building).


Quick navigation in this article:
What is a “green” roofing contractor and how one is different from regular roofing companies.
Learn about green benefits of Metal Roofing and IB Flat Roof

What is a “green” roofing contractor?

In my mind a green roofing contractor is a company that work hard to help protect environment and reduce its energy consumption and green-house gas production or carbon footprint. Sure, almost any company will have a carbon-footprint as it’s nearly impossible to be carbon-neutral, but here are many ways to achieve a much lower carbon footprint.

Here are some thing we do to make our overall operation as green as we can, all-the-while saving you, our customers, money on roof installation services, by cutting our internal costs:

First of all, we install cool roofing products, such as IB Cool Flat roofs and Metal roofing systems (usually made from about 90% recycled metal).We also try to do this in the most efficient manner possible to reduce waste, conserve resources and reduce our clients’ energy use for cooling of their home or place of business, as a result if installing our cool roofs.

What makes us a green roofing company?

Besides installing  cool and green roofing products, we strive to be green in operating our business. When it comes to estimating a roof, most roofing contractors will go to numerous roofing estimates, many of which they will not sell. Keep in mind that many home owners get as many as 5-10 estimates before they make up their mind and some roofers need to make two trips if they forgot to measure something.

We work differently: to save our time and most importantly, the energy (gasoline) it takes to drive around to hundreds, and the associated pollution, we created a system of making our estimating process as efficient as possible. This benefits everyone, and you – our customers in the first place.

Here is how our “green” roofing estimate process works:

1. When client you (homeowner or small business), contact us by email or on the phone, we collect as much information about your roof as possible. The information which we collect includes:




• Type of your roof including all roof penetrations and other specific details.
• Dimensions of your home.
• Photographs of your house and/or roof. (If pictures are unavailable for some reason, we will use Google Maps’ “street view” and Bing Maps’ “birds view” to get an idea of what your roof is like)
• Number of layers of the existing roofing materials.
• Roof age.
• Whether your roof leaks or not.
• When you plan to replace the roof.
• Any other roof related information, as well as answer as many of your questions as we can.
2. Based on the information we get from you, we assess your roof’s condition, estimate approximate cost of replacement, as well as suggest the most cost-effective solution for you, as well as address ventilation, insulation, ponding water, drainage and other roof-related issues.
3. Once we complete our analysis, we provide you with a “preliminary roofing price quote” which in our experience is about 95% accurate and may/will usually change if A) roof dimensions were provided incorrectly or B) there are more roofing layers that we were informed of and C) any other unforeseen situations, which actually rarely happen (One such situation happened when we were replacing a rubber roof in Boston, MA – there we removed old parapet cap, and found that 4 layers of brick parapet wall were sitting in completely washed out mortar. Therefore we had to rebuild the parapet wall completely, so that we could actually complete the roof installation properly).
4. Once you get our roofing price quote, you decide whether it is within your budget, and whether you want to proceed with the roof replacement and work with us. At this point many customers will ask us about our references, which we will email to you.
5. If you like our products / company / price, and want to proceed, we schedule a mutually convenient time for a Roof Inspection / Estimate, during which we actually measure your roof to make sure our quote was correct, check how many layers your roof has, make sure there will be now unforeseen situations. We also show you the product, and how it works as well as answer any questions you may have. Once we are done inspecting your roof, we give you the final roof price, which may or may not include any extra work, such as new gutters installation  or something else. Besides the extra work, our final price is 95% of the time, the same as the preliminary price quote.

What is so special about the way we estimate roofs?

The process I’ve described above, eliminates 70% of unnecessary “driving-around”, which not only helps the environment, but also saves you – our customers money! Since most roofing contractors provide seemingly “free roof estimates”, while still spending time on gas / expenses, and using their time to drive around estimating roofs, the customers that actually do sign up to work with such contractors, end up paying for all previously unsold roofing estimates. We do it differently – we give you all the information we can, including our pricing, so there are no surprises. When you have this info, you can decide if you want to work with us. To avoid charging our customers for someone-else’ unsold estimate, we implemented a $99 estimate fee, which is included in the price of the roof if you decide to work with us (it is not an extra charge). This way you only “pay” for your own estimate, and only if after the estimate you decided that for some reason you do not want to work with us. If we sign a contract – you do not pay the $99 fee. Bottom line – you, our customers don’t pay for other people who “wasted” our time, as is the case with most other roofing contractors.

When we actually go on the estimate, we also as if you have an appropriate ladder at your house, so we could access your roof. If you do not have appropriate ladder or roof access, we will bring a truck with all needed ladders. But if you do have a ladder we’d rather take a “car” instead of the truck. This may sound “cheesy” of us, but here is why we do it:

To be more green, we purchased a Toyota Prius – arguably the greenest and most fuel efficient  production car in US. The sole purpose of getting it was so that we can use it for estimating roofs. Its roomy enough to hold all the needed samples and small hand tools (such as the Hand welder for IB Roof seam welding demonstration), and can also hold additional materials for when your roof needs urgent repair work, which we can perform after the roof inspection / estimate.

Toyota Prius – Green Roofing Contractor’s estimating vehicle.

We would rather take the Prius to an estimate because we usually have to drive long distances, as our roofing jobs take place all over southern New England – we install roofs in Massachusetts, and as far west as NY borders of Western Mass. and Connecticut. Prius will save a lot of gas when we have to drive this far, and as a result a lot of pollution. And no, we do not do it to merely save a couple of bucks on gas – it will take us about 300,000 miles to break even at current gas prices ($2.59 / gallon of unleaded gas here in Massachusetts), if we compare cost of new Prius vs. new Corolla / Civic.

In the end, the way we perform our roofing estimates, benefits you (financially, as we do not need to up-charge you for costs of doing “free estimates”), us – also financially and time-wise, and the environment. This shows just one of the ways we are trying to be the “greener” roofing contractor.

Another way which makes us a greener roofing contractor is our product line of Cool Roofing products which last a VERY long time without leaks and are mostly recyclable and are often made from recycled materials. These products include IB Cool Flat Roofing membrane for flat roofs, Recycled (or new) Roofing Insulation, and different types of metal roofing materials, which often consist of more than 50% of recycled metals.

In some cases we will also recommend that you do not tear off your existing roof (this only applies to 1 layer of existing roofing materials), which will reduce land-fill waste and your costs of roof  removal and disposal. Look forward to our future article on when you should and should not tear off your old roof.

Green benefits of Cool Flat Roofing products – IB Roofs:

IB roofs’ cool white surface reflects up-to 95% of solar heat, and dramatically reduce cooling costs in the summer, and with additional thermal insulation, winter heating costs are also reduced by as much as 25-30%.

IB PVC roofing is long-lasting – you can expect your IB roof to last 30+ years without any repairs (unless there is a physical damage) while average flat roof, such as EPDM Rubber roof or tar and gravel roof, lasts 10-15 years.  Long on-the-roof service life means that you would replace your non-IB roof at least once or twice before IB roof even begins to leak. Beside enormous, non biodegradable or recyclable waste going to landfills, there is also huge amount of energy involved in installation of a new roof:

From roofing crews, each driving their F-250 or Dodge Ram to work each day, to heavy equipment delivering materials to job-site and diesel-hungry dumpster trucks going back and forth from job site to landfill, hauling the waste roofing materials.

IB Roofs are thinner and lighter than any asphalt-based product, and each roll of IB 50-mil membrane has 500 sq. ft. coverage. Therefore, for an average residential flat roof installation  we need only one trip of a fully loaded work truck or van to bring all materials, tools and 3 roofers to a job site. And we don’t need to bring a crane or haul a tar kettle around.

If you have an new hot tar or asphalt roof put on, also think about all the energy going to heat up that tar or asphalt to the point of boiling. For a torch-down modified bitumen roof, think of all the propane gas being burned to melt each square foot of that roof.

Simply by switching to cool flat roof products, a roofing contractor can in time, reduce their carbon footprint by almost 50%, increase profits, production, have happier and healthier employees (just imagine breathing in tar dust or hot asphalt fumes each day), and help protect the environment overall.

Installation video of Cool, White IB roof – hot air welding:

Green benefits of Metal Roofing:

Metal roofing is the longest lasting roofing material for sloped roofs. Some copper roofs in Europe have lasted more than 5 centuries. Metal roofs are readily made with more than 50% of recycled metals content, and will outlast ANY asphalt shingles roof by at least 3 time (when installed properly), and often will last well beyond its warranty periods.This will significantly reduce the asphalt shingles waste that goes to the landfills every 10 to 15 years, when your roof starts to leak and needs to be replaced.

Metal roofs like IB flat roofs are Cool, Energy Star compliant roofs, and will reflect significant amount of solar heat, as well as minimize heat transfer into your house. Reflectivity of metal roofs depends on the color (lighter colors will be more reflective) and the paint or coating used in manufacturing of a given metal roofing systems. The de-facto coating used in metal roofing is Kynar 500 paint and any of its variations / modifications by third-party manufacturers. These paints have in them cool roof reflective pigments, and will usually qualify of $1500 federal tax credit for energy efficient home improvements.

If your metal roof was installed incorrectly or is way past its warranty period and starts to rust / leak (only steel roofs can rust, as other metals used in metal roofing are usually rust-proof, except for corrosion caused by mixing of different metals, such as copper and aluminum). This old metal roofing materials can be recycled, and there and numerous metal recycling facilities around, where contractors bring old metals.

When we replaced old metal  roofs on IHOP restaurants (which were in part incorrectly installed over 35 years ago) in Hyannis, MA and Brighton, MA, we recycled every single piece of each of those roofs, including clips and nails used to hold them down. For more information, read or article on pros and cons of metal roofing.

Installation video of Standing Seam Cool Metal Roof:

Why hire green roofing contractors?

Basically, when you are dealing with a green roofing company, you can usually expect to work with caring and responsible people, who charge a little extra for their products and services, but will give you a lot more than your neighborhood roofer from yellow pages. It is almost a given that level of workmanship and quality of roofing products will be above and beyond than most roofing contractors. And of course the green roofing contractors will use earth-friendly products and will run their operations in a green way, which will benefit the environment. You don’t have to believe in global worming to agree that using green products and conserving energy / resources is a good thing.

If you live or own a business in Massachusetts, Connecticut or Rhode Island and need a new roof – let us know and we will give you some of the best deals around. Fill out our roof estimate form and we will help you get a “greener roof” and we promise to be gentle with mother earth!

You may use our roofing calculator to estimate the cost of your roof replacement, find out your potential energy savings (in dollars) and compare the prices of IB Roof to “not cool” EPDM rubber and Modified Bitumen (torch-down) roofs.

So is your roofing contractor green?

Replacing old rubber roof with IB PVC roofing membrane in Lowell, MA.

In the beginning of Dec. 09 we installed a new IB PVC roof in Lowell, MA. This roof replaced an old EPDM rubber roof which was installed by a hack roofing contractor about two years ago, and was failing miserably, due to two factors: poor roofing system design on the part of EPDM roofing and horrible installation by the roofing contractor, who as I suspect had almost zero knowledge about flat roofing and rubber installation. Before I go into the IB roof installation, I wanted to talk a bit about the two above-mentioned factors contributing to rubber roof failure.

The roof actually consisted of two roof sections not connected to each other. One smaller roof in the front of this historic home, was about 100 sq. ft. in total, but its shape made using a rubber roof not feasible due to limitations / flaws of rubber roof system design. Another roof section was just over 300 sq. ft. and covered enclosed porch in the rear of the house. This section had a low slope to it (about 2 in 12 pitch) and a hip roof design. The failure of both front and rear roof sections was a result of bad installation by the roofing contractor and EPDM rubber roof shrinkage as well as seam adhesive failure.

Rubber roof failure due to EPDM flaws and limitations and faulty installation my roofing contractor:

When EPDM rubber roofing membrane is installed on a roof connected to a wall of a building, the membrane must be laid down with a flap going up the wall – in essence, the wall flashing and the roof covering must be done with one piece of material to eliminate leaks the the roof to wall connection. therefore the field sheet of roofing membrane is only held down by glue (which happens to break down after 5-7 years). While in some cases this work out fine, very often the rubber shrinks and pulls away from the wall-to-roof connection point. This results in ether detachment of wall flashing, membrane pulling away from the corner of roof to wall connection, or in some rare cases, when wall flashing is securely attached to the wall, the shrinking rubber roof may pull the wall with it – for example it can pull a brick parapet wall.

IB PVC roof is installed differently. All membrane is terminated at the roof to wall connection with heavy duty fasteners (screws r masonry anchors) and barbed plates, to hold the membrane down. A separate wall flashing is installed up the wall and 5-6″ away from the wall, covering the screws and plates, and is welded to the roof, making the wall flashing watertight. The wall flashing is attached to the wall using either an aluminum termination bar, or nailed to the wall in cases when it will later be covered by siding.

At the edges of the roof, a PVC coated drip edge is installed into pressure-treated (PT) wood nailer, using roofing screws to securely attach it to the roof deck, and to prevent wind uplift. Then the IB PVC roofing membrane sis welded to the drip edge. In case of rubber roof, the drip-edge is nailed down with smooth-shank roofing nails. This makes pull-out very easy – strong wing can pull the rubber roof off, or as in this case, the rubber shrinkage pulled the whole assembly away from the roof edge. In rare cases, rubber roofing contractor will use the roofing screws to attache the drip edge. Most of the time, roofing contractor will install drip edge right over soft insulation, with 2 or 3′ roofing nails. You can easily pull off this drip edge by hand, even if its nailed 6″ o.c., as we did on this roof.

IB flat roof installation:

Roof Insulation: The homeowners who just purchased their Lowell, MA home recently, wanted to improve insulation over the back porch, while the front roof was already insulated between the rafters. We used 24–r value, 4-inch Poly ISO insulation board on the back roof and 1/2 inch fan-fold insulation in the front. The design of the rear roof section and the short distance between the two rear windows and the roof, made us use tapered insulation to actually reduce the thickness of ISO board from 4″ to 2″ at roof to wall connection. This allowed us to properly flash the roof to the wall, though gradually reducing insulating value from 24-r down to 12-r at the wall.

Roof tear-off: To keep installation costs and land-fill waste down, while installing the roof in accordance with MA building code (which allows no more than two layers of roofing material, unless approved by structural engineer and building inspector), we removed one layer of rubber roof and the fiber board, leaving old tin roof on the front roof and rolled asphalt on the rear roof in place.

Day one – installation of smaller front roof.

First thing we had to do on the first day was to get a roofing permit from Lowell building department. Since homeowners just recently bought their house, the building department did not catch up with the assessor’s office on current owners of the property (and why would day do any extra work if they don’t get paid for it?),so it took us some time to square things out.After we got the building permit, it was placed in the appropriate spot – front window of the house. Now it was time to get to work.

The roof was installed between to snow-storm – one right after Thanksgiving and another one just a few days later. On the first day we had to shovel all the snow off the front and rear roof, and removed the rubber membrane off the front roof. We decided to leave the rubber on the rear roof until we actually had time to get to it, since it was supposed to snow and rain the day after.

Once the rubber roof was removed, we installed the perimeter wood nailer and laid down the insulation. We then installed the drip edge and sheets of IP PVC roofing membrane, which were pre-cut on the ground, to simplify installation on this already tight roof. IB membrane was welded to the PVC coated drip edge and mechanically fastened down to the roof deck with heavy duty screw and plate in-filed and along the roof to wall connection.

Roof to wall flashing: A separate roof to wall flashing was installed, and welded to the roof, and nailed to the wall and attached with aluminum termination bar along the exposed wall. Inside and outside corners were flashed with IB non-reinforced corner flashing material. which was welded to the roofing membrane.

At the end, an IB 5″ two-way air-vent was installed remove the condensation between the roofing membrane and insulation. In, installation of roof to wall flashing took as lone as the rest of roof installation. Since the roof to wall flashing was the main part of rubber roof failure and the most difficult part of this installation, we had to spend extra time, making sure this one will last a lifetime.

Day two – installation of the rear roof.

Rubber roof tear-off, insulation and IB membrane  installation all had to done in one day, so the roof would be watertight after we left job site for the night. We left all finish and detail work for last day – our main goal was to have the roof covered at the end of work day. Fortunately for us, the rubber roof came off very easily, as the glue barely held it, and drip edge was popping of like popcorn. We also removed the old fiber-board, to maximize the clearance between the window sills and the roof.

Once old rubber roof was removed, we started laying out our 4 inch high wood nailer along roof’s perimeter. We used double 2×6 PT boards with 1/2 inch strips of PT plywood in the middle – this gave us almost 4″ total thickness, to match the thickness of ISO insulation. When the wood nailer was installed, we laid down the double 2″ insulation boards along the outer perimeter of the roof. At this point we had to start the tapered insulation. We first laid down 1″ ISO board and then double sheets of 1/4″ per foot tapered ISO, to bring the total insulation thickness from 4″ to 2″ over 4 feet distance.

Once all insulation was laid out, and fastened down according to FM Global insulation fastening standards (8 fasteners per 4×8 sheet of insulation), we installed the pre-cut rolls of IB membrane, which was fastened down 12″ O.C.

First we installed a perimeter half-sheet roll, and then a full width roll, butting it against the wall. Now it was time for roof to wall flashing and termination. Our roof to wall flashing was made out of 3 pieces of 2 feet wide IB membrane to have appropriate up-the-wall flashing. After roof to wall flashing was installed and all seams welded, we installed two outside corner flashing. Now the roof was watertight, it was already dark, and time to go home.

Day three – installation of drip-edge, cover tape and cedar clapboard siding.

On the last day we installed the special order 5″ wide face drip edge which was installed over the IB membrane, and a 6″ IB cover tape was welded down to the drip edge and the roof. All joints between the 10 foot sections of the drip-edge sealed according to IB installation spec to prevent roof damage from expansion and contraction of the metal. A 2″ foil-tape was placed over the joint and a 5″ IB flashing material was welded on top. We also replaced the old cedar clapboard siding which was rotted and fell apart after we removed it to install the roof to wall flashing. Although it does not seem like a lot of work, it actually to us entire day to complete. As the last finishing touch, a 5″ two-way membrane vent was installed in the center of the roof.

Information for homeowners regarding flat roofs:

Words of caution  we strongly recommend home and building owners to avoid installing EPDM rubber roofing membrane. Besides the faulty design of this roof, there are too many shady contractors, with little or no experience, who can buy rubber roofing material at almost any roofing supply warehouse. You may be attracted to seemingly low price of EPDM rubber roofs, but be aware that low price comes with VERY low quality of workmanship, and to compensate for low prices, these contractors will use cheap rubber glue and accessories.

When you choose to go with a quality flat roofing product like IB Flat Roofs and a professional contractor, you will not be paying twice for a new flat roof and dealing wit roof leaks and finding your rubber roof installer to fix the leaks, like the one bellow:

Leaking rubber roof in Quincy, MA, installed directly over asphalt shingles:

Look at the picture above – it is a 1 year old EPDM rubber that was installed by a shady “rubber roofing specialist” contractor, who disappeared, and does not return home owner’s phone calls. They glued the rubber membrane straight to asphalt shingles roof, which you can see “telegraphing through the rubber. This roof has leaking ever since it was installed. Read more information about rubber roof materials, roofing contractors and their training in installation of rubber roofs (or lack of such training) in our rubber roofing guide for flat roof owners.

If you have a leaking rubber roof in Metro Boston area of Massachusetts, and can’t afford to replace it now with IB PVC roof, we can repair you EPDM rubber roof with high quality EPDM peel-and-stick flashing accessories - MA rubber roofing repair services start at $350 and include 2 hours of repair work, and necessary materials to complete the repair. Fill out the rubber roof repair request form to schedule a a professional roof mechanic to come and fix your commercial or residential EPDM rubber roof.

Getting IB roof installed on you flat roof in Massachusetts:

If you have a flat roof in Lowell, MA, or and other city in Massachusetts, we can install and IB PVC flat roofing membrane on the roof of your home or business – fill out our roofing estimate and price quote request form and don’t forget to use our roofing price calculator to estimate your roof replacement costs, and compare prices to EPDM rubber and Tar and Gravel roofing.

As you may know, we specialize in installation of IB roofs – premium grade PVC flat roofing membranes, with fusion hot-air welded seams which ensure permanent lap bond, and as a result, leaks-free performance. At the same time if you have a rubber roof, which is in fairly decent shape, but has developed some leaks due to lap sealant (epdm rubber glue) failure, we can repair your rubber roof fairly inexpensively, as compared to installing a new IB roof, and extend the service life of your rubber roof. Learn more about our rubber roof repair services in MA, CT and RI. We want you to know that although we repair rubber roofs, we will not install it, because for us it is an inferior roofing material with too many limitations and possibilities to develop roof leaks.

Here we will explain you how these repairs work and what you can expect, as well as show a few roof repairs in Massachusetts which have done recently. We also recommend that your read our Rubber Roofing guide, which explains the shortcomings of rubber roofs, and explains why we advise home owners to stay away from EPDM rubber roofing systems due to product limitations and overwhelming number of dishonest roofing contractors eager to install rubber roofs, without proper knowledge of this system. Instead we recommend installing IB Flat Roof – a PVC single ply flat roofing systems with hot-air welded seams which will not break down as rubber roof seams tend to do after 5-7 years.

We also want to let the flat rubber roof owners know that any rubber roof repair or installation must be performed in temperatures above 40 degrees F, as the primer / adhesives will otherwise freeze or be too cold to properly dry/tack and provide proper adhesion. Unless your roof repair is more of an emergency, we recommend postponing it until the warmer temperature sets in. If your roof repair is an emergency, special measures can be taken to keep the adhesive warm and on a sunny day the black rubber will be warmer then outside temperature, so repair can be done even on a colder day. We strongly advise you against installing a new rubber roof in general and in the winter especially. Read more info on pros and cons of winter roofing, and keep in mind that IB flat roofs can be installed in any tempereature, because they are not glued, but hot air welded.

EPDM rubber roof repair in Brookline, MA:

As  you drive on Newton St. in South Brookline, there is a big apartments complex, located right next to Exxon gas station. This apartment complex has a fairly recent Carlisle EPDM rubber roof which is about 7-10 years old (according tho property manager), but due to some ponding water, this roof has developed leaks in some spots, which the management had to repair, before small leaks escalate into bigger problems. Since EPDM rubber roofs are not warrantied for any type of ponding water (water that  stays on the flat roof for more than 48 hours after rain), I made an note for the complex management that their small leaks can turn into bigger problems if actions are not taken. However, thir ponding water problem was not as severe as in other cases, because the water was able to drain through the Roof Drains located  in different parts of the roof. Also, the skylights which are spread through-out the roof create additional potential leaks.

We’ve inspected the roof with seam probe to find obvious separated seams, and to the owner’s relief, the seams were in more or less decent shape. However the corner flashing on the roof fire exit were worn out and developed holes in them which had to be repaired. We used the peel-and stick quick-applied rubber flashing, which is an uncured rubber material and can stretch to conform to the required shape (and inside or outside corner, pipe flashing, etc.). After installed, uncured flashing material will cure under the sun’s UV rays,, while keeping its new form. Peel and stick rubber flashings are applied with the EPDM primer which ensures better adhesion and longer lasting repair.

Once the uncured flashing is installed, it is already watertight and just need to cure, and take its new permanent shape. The the edges of all flashings are also caulked with EPDM lap sealant for additional water-tightness. The uncured EPDM flashing material is installed on odd-shaped roof penetrations. If you need to flash a straight line, such as lap seam, a special EPDM rubber cover tape is used. It is also a quick-applied peel and stick materials, but already cured, and will retain its existing shape. Read on to learn how EPDM cover tape is used to re-seam a commercial roof to dramatically extend its service life.

Rubber roof repair in Boston, MA:

This is a commercial office building in Boston, which has developed leaks in different parts of seam overlaps between separate sheets of rubber membrane. The roof is a 60-mil EPDM rubber, made by Firestone, with river rock ballast to hold the membrane down. We had to shovel off all the ballast away from the seams, so we could clean and repair them.

Once the loose gravel is broomed ad shoveled off the seam joints, the seams had to be wiped clean with the EPDM rubber cleaner. You should know that many “rubber roofers” will use gasoline to clean the seams, instead of the cleaner, which costs almost twenty dollars per gallon, instead of gasoline being under $3 right now. However, rubber should not be cleaned with gasoline, as oil based products will actually break down the EPDM membrane with time. Even though gas will evaporate before it will have a chance to do any real damage, it will certainly not be beneficial to you as a roof owner if your roofing contractor washes seams down with gas. Rubber roof manufacturers strongly object to roofers using gas to clean the seams. However they can do very little to enforce this, so it is often the responsibility of of an honest roofing contractor to not use gasoline to clean the membrane, and the roof owners should also inspect the roofer while the roof is being installed, to make sure the get quality installation.

Notice in the picture above, while one roofer is cleaning and soaking the seam area with membrane cleaner, the other roof uses rough push broom to clean off the tough dirt, so that there is proper adhesion between the rubber membrane and seam tape.

Once the area is cleaned with membrane cleaner, a rubber primer is applied to the are of contact, and the let to be dried to the point of being tacky. After primer is dry, the peel and stick seam tape can be applied. The special chemical on the peel and stick tape make use of rubber glue (splice adhesive) not necessary. The primer acts as a glue and actually creates a stronger bond than the splice adhesive.

In fact, the introduction of peel and stick seam tapes and other flashing materials for rubber roofs, made the entire system a lot better than it was when only option was the splice glue, which would often fail in 5-7 years after original roof installation. With peel-and-stick roof accessories the rubber roofs now can last 10-12 or even more years, before re-seaming is required.

Once the EPDM primer is applied and allowed to dry for a few minutes, the Peel and Stick cover tape is installed and carefully rolled in using a Silicone roller, to push out any air bubbles and ensure stronger, even adhesion between the roof and a cover tape. When all tape is installed, edges are caulked with EPDM lap sealant for additional protection. Now this roof should last at least 5 more years before additional repair or replacement is required.

On commercial re-seam repair work, we can offer a bi-annual roof inspection / service contract with three years water-tightness warranty, which VERY few roofing contractors can offer. Warranty and service contract can be discussed separately, when we give you a roof repair estimate. Neither is included by default into our standard rubber roof repair service.

Rubber roof repair in Lexington, MA – chimney cracks and copper counter flashing:

A more recent, residential rubber roof repair, that was done on the roof of a “newly historic home” in Lexington, Massachusetts in November, 2009. Homeowners had a new rubber roof installed in 2002 by a New Hampshire construction company which is now out of business, and could not provide roof repair. After about seven years roof began to leak around the chimney. Prior to this leak, the original roof installer was supposed to install a lead counter flashing around the chimney. They skipped this part of roof installation, and had to come back and do it, after homeowners confronted them with the issue.

As I came to inspect the roof I noticed that there were large soft spots around the chimney corners. The lead flashing was eaten by squirrels on all four corners of the chimney, and the chimney itself had multiple cracks in the brick, mortar, and old cracks which were sealed with some type of exterior caulking, which was now failing. Other then that, to my surprise I could not find any actual leaks in the rubber roof. The design of the house, which is a butterfly roof sloped down from the center, makes this roof virtually leaks-free unless the roof  installation is a complete hack job. It was also more or less properly installed with 3″ peel-and-stick seam tape, seams overlapping in the downward direction, and single-piece pipe boots.The only part that could leak was the chimney membrane  flashing, but it was also in a very decent shape and seam-probe test shown no separations between the roof and chimney flashing.

Only after the lead flashing was removed, I found a small separation in the chimney flashing at the corner, which was eaten by squirrels. This flashing separation could potentially leak, though would be a minor contributor. I concluded that most of the leaks come through the chimney cracks, which had to be thoroughly cleaned off old caulking and wire-brushed, to allow the new sealant to properly adhere to the brick. I also recommended to replace the damaged lead counter-flashing with new Copper flashing, which would last a lot longer and squirrels would not chew it.

I started out by removing old lead flashing and cutting a continuous 1″ deep grove into the chimney, in which new copper flashing would be permanently inserted. This grove was made in the brick itself, and not into mortar joints, which are much softer and do not provide sufficient strength for the counter-flashing. Once the cuts were made and all the brick dust was cleaned out of the grove and the roof, I began cleaning out the cracks in the brick and removing old caulking.

Once all prep-work was completed, it was time to flash the only rubber material separation found around the chimney. I thoroughly cleaned the rubber membrane with rubber cleaner, applied EPDM primer and installed the peel-and-stick, uncured flashing, which covered both sides of the corner, as well as base of the corner flashing and the seam separation that I found after lead counterflashing was removed.

After all cracks were thoroughly cleaned, wire-brushed and the corner flashing was installed, I began making the new copper counter flashing. We used a 16 oz. copper sheet to cut and field bend a 12 inch wide flashing which would be inserted into the groves. The 16 oz. copper is very thick, as compared to aluminum or steel – it is almost 1/16″ thick metal. This makes it a bit difficult to work with, even though it is softer than steel.

The new copper flashing pans were first cut and bent, to properly fit around the chimney, but wer not permanently put in until all four sides of the chimney were done. The first pan was installed at the bottom of the chimney. Then the side pans overlapped the bottom pan at the corners of the chimney and than the back pan overlapped the the side pans, making it an completely watertight chimney counter flashing.

As we were installing the copper pans, we had an unexpected visitor on the roof. The visitor snuck up behind our back, and quietly climbed onto the roof. This visitor was more than unexpected, as would never imagine seeing on go to the roof. It turned out to be a neighbor’s cat which was very pretty and absolutely not afraid of us, or the noise we were making. The cat climbed up the ladder, inspected the situation, made sure we were doing good job and disappeared for a while. It later came back for a final roof inspection.

Under strict supervision of the neighbor’s cat we carried on with installation of the copper counter flashing. Once all pan were, cut, bent and tightly fitted, we removed them from the chimney and installed premium roofing caulking sealant (Solar Seal 900) which would hold the pans in place as well as make them watertight. We also sealed all the cracks in the chimney, to make sure water was neot getting through those cracks.

Once all the caulking was applied, the pans went back in, and permanently sealed with additional bead of caulking. the pans were also locked into each other to prevent separation by strong wind. The chimney ar rubber roof repair was now complete with a new, long-lasting copper flashing reglet.

Rubber roof repair in Massachusetts:

This will be the last report about our rubber roof repair jobs. We now have a dedicated website about rubber roof repair in Mass. as well as Connecticut, Rhode Island and New Hampshire. There you will find all the information about our EPDM roof repair projects, services, warranties, as well as Do-it-yourself installation and repair guides specific to rubber roofs. At this time though, that site is still in development, so you can learn about our rubber flat roof repair service and schedule an appointment for us to fix your rubber roof.

Upon the completion of your roof repair or instead of, we can provide you with a quote to install a new IB Roof. You can calculate an approximate cost to install IB roof and compare prices with EPDM Rubber as well as Built-up and modified bitumen roofs, with our online roofing calculator. We can also provide you with a complete roof inspection and a roofing estimate which will include exact cost of new roof installation as well as our suggestions about insulation and roof repairs.

Massachusetts is our home state and here is where we install majority of our roofs (with Connecticut being in second place). In Massachusetts, roofing market is very different, depending on location, and although there are a lot more sloped roofs, not only in Mass., but in the rest of the country, we still install more Flat roofs than Metal roofs. As for geographic location of your home in Massachusetts, up north, toward the New Hampshire border, roofs are more prone to Ice Dam roof leaks and damages than houses located in the southern MA.

Although Massachusetts is not a very big state, the your location can have a dramatic effect on the amount of snow fall in the winter, and thus your chances of having Ice dams and and related roof leaks. For example on the same day, an average roof in Sharon or Norwood will have 1-2 inches of ice alone the eaves, whereas an average roof in Lowell will have 5+ inches of ice build-up. If you go further north of south away from Boston the amount of annual snow accumulation and ice dams will increase or decrease respectively.

Why do I mention Ice dams and roof leaks in the intorductory part? It’s simple – most commercial roofs are flat, and are not prone to ice dams, though they have their own list of problems that I will discuss bellow. Residential roofs on the other hand are the ones mostly affected by ice dams. These are both sloped roofs and low-slope / flat roof, and we have the best and longest lasting solutions for both - Metal Roofing for sloped roofs and IB Roof for low slope flat roofs, such as shed dormer roofs, and completely flat roofs.

Bellow we will give you a quick overview of most recent and some older roof installations that we’ve completed in Mass. Keep in mind that these are not the complete job profiles. Complete job overviews will be posted separately, as time permits us to write them. In the overviews bellow I will provide basic information about each roof, accompanied by a few pictures and short description of roof installation process and challenges we had to face.

Before we go into job reviews, here are a few additional articles you may find useful, when choosing a roof product for your home and a roofing contractor to install it:

How to prevent Ice Dams – comprehensive guide on which focuses on the root cause of Ice dams which is usually a combination of poor ventilation and and inadequate insulation in the attic space or between roof rafters. This guide will help homeowners minimize heat leaks in the attic, improve ventilation and eliminate the effects of ice dam leaks by installing a Metal Roof or an IB low-slope roofing membrane.

Low-slope roofs – Overview of common problems associated with low slope residential roof such as shed dormers or roof on most cape-style homes located in the norther MA. Common issues with such roofs include rotten roof decking / rafters and Ice-dams. Since this roofs are prone to Ice dam leaks, most of the rot damage is an effect of ice dams and although many roofing contractors will insist that using Ice and Water shield will do the trick, our experience shows that most of the time I&W fails to protect the roof even if entire roof deck is covered in Ice and Water. Therefore we believe that best solution for permanent protection of low-slope roofs and eliminating ice dams is the use of metal roof of IB flat roofing membrane in conjunction with solving ventilation/insulation issues described in the article above.

Roofs we installed in Massachusetts:

Low slope shed dormer roof in Westminster, MA

This roof we installed in early May of 2009. The house is located in heavily wooded are of central Mass, just north of mount Wachusett. Westminster, MA is located along Rt. 2, and not very far from New Hampshire border. These areas get major snow falls in the winter, together with colder temperatures than those in Boston and ice dams are a major problem in Westminster, even for high slope roofs. Low slope roofs such as the one we replaced there, are very likely to have ice dam leaks and other problems such as rotten roof deck, wet insulation, and mold.

The roof has been leaking for some time around the chimney in the center of the roof and was patched many times with tar, but rather unsuccessfully. Also, due to Ice Dams and roof leaks caused by ice formation along the roof eaves, the home owner installed heating cables to stop the Ice dam leaks. These however did not help either and after one more unsuccessful roof repair, home owner decided to get an IB roof installed.

The home owner and their cousin who is a roofer in NH, did the roof tear-off and replaced all rotten plywood decking, to reduce the cost of roof installation, while we installed the roof itself, insulation, chimney flashing, ridge vent and snow guards (snow retention system).

Note – even though before we installed IB roof, home owner’s main concern was to get ice and snow off the roof. After IB roof was installed, our concern was that due to roof’s pitch, which was about 3 in 12″, the snow and Ice would just slide off the roof in a large pile, crushing down onto deck and perch bellow it. Also there was a grill on the deck which was not movable since it was tied to a gas line.

The chimney flashing, which may seem to take not to much time, actually took about 6-7 hours to properly flash. The reason ot turned out to be so lime consuming it that it is located in the center and separates the ridge vent as well as creeping onto another side of the roof. Due to its position, size and the way IB roof is installed it not only took long to work around, but also slowed down the rest of roof installation. Because the the ridge vent buts into the chimney, we had to make sure that not only ridge vent is raised an inch off the roof level to prevent the wind-driven rain from leaking into the house, but also that it is completely tied to the roof, and flashed up the chimney. Once the chimney flashing was installed and counter flashing reglet had to bi installed as well.

All in all it took us 3 days to install this roof, though 3rd day was rather short. What really slowed us down, was the first heat wave of that spring and unrealistic number of bugs / flies / mosquitoes in this wooded / swampy area of central Mass.

Roofing membrane used: 50 mil mechanically attached IB PVC flat roofing system.

Insulation used: 1/2″ fan-fold Styrofoam insulation with clear plastic / metal facing.

Total roof square footage: Approximately 500 sq. ft.

Standing seam metal roof in Wayland, MA.

Right after the roof in Westminster was installed, we started getting ready for a big metal roofing project, which used .032 Aluminum standing seam metal roof in 1 3/4″ snap lock profile with 16″ wide pan and stiffening ribs. This roof took about two weeks to install between tear-off of old asphalt shingles, siding removal, replacement of rotten wood replacement, delays with material shipments and wrong type of flashing being delivered.

Actually one of the delays happened because our supplier ran out of Grey aluminum coil after 80 % of roofing panels were rolled out of their mobile standing seam roll-forming machine, which was based in Manchester, NH. As the supplier received more aluminum coil 3 dais later the send a different truck, from New London, CT. As that truck arrived and rolled off the first test panel, just out of curiosity I decided to compare first batch to the second one. It turned out that the machine on the New London truck was set up to be 1/8″ wider than Manchester truck. This, over the course of 23 panels gave us an extra 3″ of panel which converted to two extra panels – 1 1/2″ wide – on either side of the rear roof section and exactly 23 panels on the front. We had to send the truck back and wait for the Manchester, NH truck to deliver and roll out the same coil. Even the guys working for the supplier were not aware if this mismatch between the two machines.

In the end the Manchester truck delivered the right-width panels and we were able to finish the jobs without any more delays. The homeowner – Glenn – was also very concerned with snow and ice falling off the roof and damaging the gutters bellow, so we installed a commercial-grade double rail snow retention system to eliminate the possibility of snow falls form the roof.

We already posted a full review of this roof installation on our blog, a few months back, so if you want to know more details, read the standing seam metal roof in Wayland, MA job profile.

Rubber roof in Boston, MA.

In August of 2009 we’ve completed a rather small, but very tricky and complicated flat roof installation in Boston, on one of the traditional Boston-style homes/buildings, which you can see all alogn Mass. ave, Comm. ave as well as Blue Hills avenue, on which this house is located. It was originally a EPDM rubber roof, which had over 50 percent of seams separated due to adhesive failure. The two-tower wood design made this roof much more difficult to repair and our client – Jim – chose to eliminate the hassles of frequent roof repairs and decided to have an 80-mil IB roof installed.

Although this should have been a pretty much straight-forward roof replacement, with rubber tear-off performed first and a new IB roof installed, I sensed that it will not be an easy job. Until we opened up the roof I could not say for sure what obstacles we’re going to face, but once we did remove the rubber, we found that entire length of the masonry parapet wall was damaged by water and poor quality of brick mortar. We also found that we would have to rebuild the parapet walls much as 4 layers of brick deep.

Because a chose a careful approach to the rubber removal, by only pulling back the rubber membrane off the parapet wall, and not cutting it, we were able to do entire brick repair work and roof preparation, while having the roof watertight each night with original rubber membrane.

Once all brick repair war was complete and mortar had sufficient time to cure, we installed a 2×8 pressure treated perimeter wood nailer to which IB wall flashing and drip edge would be attached. Only on the last day did we remove the whole rubber roof, installed new insulation and laid dawn the new, mechanically attached IB PVC flat roofing membrane.

We had to come back one more time to install the new gutter and downspouts, IB two-way membrane vents and 9″ IB attic vents over specially cut holes in the roof deck. These attic vents were installed to vent out the moisture that accumulated in the small attic space when the old rubber roof was leaking. Once in place these oversize vents will eventually dry out the attic and prevent any future mold growth.

Now Jim can enjoy his watertight roof and get sun baths sitting in his beach chair on the roof of his home, and not worry about damage to membrane – he chose a very durable, commercial grade 80-mil IB roof. He will also enjoy a cooler home, due to IB cool roofing features.

You can read the complete job profile about this Flat roof in Boston, MA on our Cool Roofing Blog.

Flat roof in Framingham, MA

One of the more recent roofs we’ve installed was in Framingham, MA, where we installed an IB roof on yet another shed dormer roof for Ed Kelly – a high-end remodeling contractor out of Northborough, MA. The builder had his crew remove old asphalt shingles off this roof an replace most of the old decking with new 3/4" plywood. We were there to install just the membrane and flash it 2 feet up the sloped roof.

During my conversation with Ed (builder), he told me me why he chose the seemingly more expensive IB roof over a cheaper rubber EPDM membrane. His main reason was the IB’s hot-air welded seams, and hassle free roof performance. Before, Ed would use a rubber roof on a few of his projects, end all but one of them leaked due to problems with seams, and required expensive rubber roof repair. Ed decided to end his flat roofing nightmares and constant rubber roof leaks, and went with IB roof.

The entire job took us one day to complete. The roof was ready to start, as we arrived to the job site in the morning, and before dark we packed our tools and were ready to leave, as the roof was all done. The roofing crew which did the tear off and deck replacement was putting the new asphalt shingles and aluminum fascia trim back on, as we were driving away.

Roofing material: 50 mil white IB roof, mechanically attached.

Insulation: 1/2″ fan-fold Styrofoam.

Total roof size: Approximately 450 sq. ft.

Flat roof deck in Wellesley, MA

Just before the Framingham flat roof job described above, we did another job for Ed – an 80 mil IB roof that would be a water-proofing membrane for a roof deck over a garage being built as an addition to an already huge home in a very secluded area of Wellesley.

Once again, a complete job profile for this roof deck is already on our blog, so there is no point to rewrite it here – read the Wellesley, MA  flat roof deck installation overview.

Solar flat roof in Medford, MA

This job, was actually sponsored by Cool Flat Roof (us) and IB Roof Systems, as it was a non-profit project, competing in the 2009 Solar Decathlon competition, sponsored by the US DOE. We installed an IB roof on a Boston solar home with some help from the project volunteers and Architecture students from BAC and Tufts.

Once again, we have a complete coverage of the installation of the IB flat roof and the Solar PV panels on this roof - Solar roof installation in Boston, MA.

Low slope shed dormer roof in Hingham, MA

Yet another shed dormer roof and also with major ice dams problems and leaks. This roof was just a year old when we removed the old asphalt shingled, and installed a new 50 mil IB traditions roof with asphalt shingles pattern printed onto IB white roofing membrane. This roof was completely covered with Ice & water shield which failed miserably and forced homeowner to climb up the slippery ladder all winter long, sometimes two times a day, to brake off the ace along the roof edge.

Homeowner – Paul – tried everything, from sodium-filled socks above the skylights to heating cables – nothing seemed to help, as with lack of proper ventilation and inherent limitations of asphalt shingles, his roof was still leaking, as it faced north, and sun never shined over it in the winter.

Paul wanted a permanent solution to stop roof leaks and not a single roofing contractor that Paul contacted could explain to him how they would stop the leaks or promise that their roof will work. Some even offered to  install asphalt shingles with Ice & Water shield – Really? Paul already had shingles with Ice and Water and it was not working.

Initially, Paul contacted us about getting a metal roof installed on his house, but after examining the roof, I suggested ti install IB roof instead, and residential flat roofing solution form IB  - Traditions Classic seemed to be the best option as it combined all the benefits of IB roof with the classic look of architectural asphalt shingles printed onto the membrane. After a little decision making, Paul and his wife chose to go with a seamless one piece IB roof. In this case there would be zero possibility of ice dam leaks.

All skylights now have seamless 1-piece plashing whelded to the roof, and the rodge vent is raise by an inch above the roof level to prevent wind driven water from penetrating the roof.

Now that Paul has a new IB Traditions roof, which is in effect a seamless, one piece blanket over entire roof, he and his wife won’t have to worry about roof leak and breaking ice off the roof any more.

With this, we conclude the first part of our Massachusetts job profiles list. We will update it as we have time to add more pictures and descriptions to each job, and will also add complete job profiles for each roof, when we have a chance.

Getting IB roof or a metal roof installed on your home in Massachusetts:

If your roof is leaking or you have Ice dams,and are tired of fighting with the ice, using heat cables, sodium-filled socks, raking your roof, and risking to fall of a ladder, you need to contact the low-slope roofing experts ( us ), request a free roofing price quote and schedule a roof inspection / estimate. You can also use our online roofing calculator to estimate your roof replacement cost and compare the roof prices of IB PVC membrane to Rubber roofing and Modified bitumen / Tar and gravel roofs.

Forewords: If you are a building inspector / official, please try to understand that this rant from contractors point of view… Or at least be objective and unbiased.

Pros and cons of building permits:

Why do we need building inspectors (and do we really need them)? Well, they are supposed to inspect – right? They are there to protect homeowners from shady contractors, and ensure that construction goes in accordance with state / national building codes. That’s why we also have specialty trade inspectors (electrical, plumbing, mechanical, etc). But do they really do their job? Another question – why do we need building permits? Yes, to pay the building inspector for doing his/her job – do the inspections. Yea, right!

I will purposely omit building inspectors in charge of large construction projects such as bridges, sky-scrapers, factories, etc. There is a lot more responsibility there and these inspectors are a lot more knowledgeable  than your average “Joe the building inspector”.

In my being a roofing contractor, I had to pull many permits in the last 6 years – for almost every job we did. In all this time, only once have I seen a building inspector at a job site, and he was there to harass the home-owner about the “illegal kitchen” that came with the house they just purchased. In the beginning of my construction life, I needed to get permits, but did not have sufficient / adequate insurance and in some cases did not have the Home Improvement Contractor registration in a state I was doing work. Luckily for me, I was able to get permits, and because I have dignity (I’d like to think so) I did decent work without code violations and nothing bad ever happened. I once had a “stop job” order posted at a job site, where we forgot to pull a permit. Ahh… the good old days.

When you get into serious contracting like the Metal Roofing and IB Roof installations, you can’t afford not to have proper insurances and licenses. Your clients by default expect everything to be current and you to be fully insured – both worker’s comp and general liability.  And besides, it is easier to show proof of insurance than to explain why you do not have it, or better yet to ask home owner to pull “owners permit”. It is also much easier to get a permit in 5 minutes instead of waiting 3 days and hoping that inspector is not a complete a$$ or is looking for a bribe – for some reason, I have a very strong suspicion that some building inspectors in Lynn, Revere, Malden and other surrounding towns in Massachusetts, purposely jerk contractors around, as if telling them – “give me $300 and you have your permit”. I really believe so. Or they just hate people in general. But let me get back to building inspectors.

My experience with building inspectors and permits:

I will try to be logical here, and present information in chronological order. Here is a work day of a building inspector as I see it:

In 85% of the times I walked into a building department of any city and town, building inspector is not there. Apparently they are out, doing inspections. But as I mentioned before, I had never seen and inspector on my job site, to inspect my roof. If inspector is in the office, he (I will use a “he” as all building inspectors I’ve met, were guys) will make you wait 2-5 minutes before asking you what you need. Apparently they need to feel as if they have power and are in control. After the initial coldness I did get permits, so there is nothing to complain about. But there is. And it is about how I got my permits and why do we actually need to pull them and pay for them. It is my honest belief that permits were instituted as means for towns to raise money, and biased on this assumption I’m more than happy to pay the fee. But any building inspector will tell you that permit is to pay for the inspection and enforcement on the building codes.

So I will tell you a few instances of how I got some of my permits, how horrendous the process can be for a contractor, and why so many contractors, including honest, illegal and shady ones, never pull permits. There is a provision in Mass. Building code that inspector has up to 30 days to issue the permit. We installed a Metal Roof on an IHOP restaurant in Hyannis, MA (down at the Cape Cod). When I vent to pull the permit (which was an hour drive one way) I almost got rejected, as my Worker’s Comp certificate was generic and not made out to Town of Barnstable. Fortunately, my insurance agent faxed in a copy 2 minutes before town hall closed.

As a side note, due to insurance fraud, in MA, your insurance agent cannot really give you an “all purpose” worker’s comp certificate, and the actual insurance company must print one out and mail it to you. This takes at least 3 days. Imagine a regular residential roofing company which installs a roof in one day and works 5 days a week. They have to get worker’s comp certificate for each roof, for every town they work in.

As my insurance certificate came out of fax machine, the office lady called over the building inspector to look at my paperwork (after being there for an hour and a half, he never looked a it). He asked me for HIC registration ONLY, although all commercial work required me having a CSL (construction supervisor license) and HIC implies that i do home improvement. When I offered the inspector my CSL, he said that he did not need it. Neither did he need my general liability insurance. Once he verified what he was looking for, he said: “You are all set – you can start in two weeks.” Why??? Why on earth do I have to wait two weeks??? I can loose a contract in two weeks. “Fortunately” half the roof on the restaurant was blown off by a storm wind, and it was more of an emergency roof work – this was the only reason he “allowed” us to start right away. So why do we need to wait two weeks I still don’t know. Time spent to get the permit – 4.5 hours.

Another time we did a roof in Grafton, MA. An IB low-slope roof on a residential home. Nothing fancy – a pretty straight forward roof. As I applied for the permit, I was told to firs fill out 7 different forms, pay three different departments for some ridiculous things (even the health department) and I also had to submit a SPEC for IB roof installation, including MSDS sheet (why?). They did not expect me to be back for a few days, but I was determined to either get a permit or permission to start work the same day as once again I drove pretty far to make sure every thing is ready for us to start when we planned to. I quickly ran to town library and printed about 20 pages of IB specifications describing exactly the parts of the roof we were going to do (I love IB online Quick Spec writer). When I brought back the whole package, the inspector was so surprised that he gave me an “ok” to start any time. Later, his secretary told me that he will actually read the spec. If I had know, I’d print out 200 pages, of exiting reading material.  Time spent to get the permit – 5 hours.

There are many other stories I can tell about pulling a building permit. I do want to say that not all inspectors are evil. One time we told a building inspector in Abington, MA that we did not have MA HIC – only the one from Rhode Island. He was cool enough to tell us: “get the homeowner to pull the permit”, which we did and all worked out well. I also absolutely love the Boston building department. The flow of contractors there is so heavy that they do not have time for stupid things like full spec for a small residential re-roof. They check your insurances and licenses, collect a fee and give you a permit.

Many towns in MA and CT will give you permission to start and mail you the permit. Some will make you run around as a squirrel. They will want 3 days before you can start a job. So I adopted and “evolved”.  Now I call the building department of any city or town where I’m going to work and tell them that I have a 3 hours drive to just get to their town, and if the could “please let me start the same day I apply for a permit”. This usually worked great. For example, when we installed an IB flat roof in Andover, CT – I never actually met the building inspector in person. I spoke to him on the phone – told him roof leaks and is covered with tarps (which was true) and we need to start ASAP. He gave an ok and all I had to do, was apply for the permit and provide proof of insurance and a construction license.

The second flat roof which we did in the Andover, CT – I still had to talk to him on the phone. This time he wasn’t as happy but since we already came to town, I “begged” him to let us start the job, without looking at it. Once again it was a complete tear-off and pretty straight forward, so he gave us a green light. But from now on, I have to apply for permit by mail and he wants to see my work. Next time I’m in Andover, I’ll give him a call ahead of time. Here you can see the pictures of our second roof in Andover, Connecticut and on of a roof in Westminster , MA: http://www.coolflatroof.com/flat-roofing-blog/low-slope-roofing-on-shed-dormers/

Why you should have a building permit for any construction work:

Bottom line – not all building inspectors are evil. Some are very nice, some are just bored and need things to do, and some need to feel powerful. All depends on your luck. I learned how to coexist with any building inspector, and no do everything in advance – even have my insurance agent fax over my certificates before I arrive at city hall.

Why did I write all this? Well – this is my blog and I can do it! Where else can I talk about it?

What is the point of all of this? I just had to get it out of my system after years of contractor – inspector interaction. Also my friend tried to pull a roofing permit for a VERY simple and straight forward roof – a measly 9 squares  on walkable gable roof in Malden, MA. And the inspector wants to inspect … maybe he had a bad day, but my buddy has to wait a few days until he can start. Really? So this was my inspiration.

Also, I want to make a point that many inspectors let shady contractors with fake certificates slide through or don’t even check for insurance and construction license, all-the-while they make other contractors chase their tails and waste time (and money) as if they have nothing to do. They also harass homeowners and issue stupid fines for stupid violations that should be grandfathered in. This creates situations where homeowners  and contractors knowingly do not pull permits. It also creates risk for homeowners to be left out if a shady contractor does bad job and screws them – without a permit they cannot use the Mass. Homeowner Protection Fund.

Can this be fixed? I don’t see a solution since there are too many hack inspectors and contractors out there and homeowners really need to do their due diligence – check references, call people, look at the jobs, licenses, insurance certificates, etc.

I encourage any homeowner to read my article on how to choose a roofing contractor. You should also know that it is pretty easy to “scam” the building permit process. For example, a roofing contractor must have a full roofing general liability insurance, which can easily cost $10,000+ per year, and worker’s come which runs at about 35-40% of payroll ($35-40 for every $100 you pay your guys). Many contractors will buy a siding insurance for $500-700 per year and use that certificate to pull permits.  The can also claim to be “sole proprietor” on the Worker’s Comp form when they apply for a permit and get away with not having the insurance at all – even if they have employees.

As for licenses – in Rhode Island there is no construction license at all – only a contractor registration. You can do everything with it, except for electrical, plumbing, etc. In Massachusetts, only recently have they implemented a mandatory requirement for CSL to perform roofing, siding and windows work. Before, any hack could get a roofing permit with just and HIC registration.

So once again, always do your due diligence when choosing a contractor.

As for the contractors – have your paperwork ready, do good work and, good luck guys!

PS. I’m not an angel and did not start my roofing business with $20,000 to buy all proper insurance. I did my share of getting around the permitting issue. Every one goes through it, but some remain in that stage forever. As for me – I prefer to do everything the right way or not do it at all.

Rubber roofing (EPDM) is not the best system for flat roofs, but in some instances, it just does not work right off the bet, and when it leaks, repairing such a roof is not even an option. In late July of 2009 we began work on one such roof in Roxbury , MA – a neighborhood of Boston, located 15 minutes from downtown.

The roof was installed by an unqualified roofing contractor that apperanly never installed a rubber roof before, nor did the contractor care about quality at all, which you can judge for yourself from the photographs of the roof that we’ve provided. As you will be able to see, this particular roof, though small, required a lot of detail work which is the defining factor of weather this roof will leak or not. The roofer that installed the EPDM rubber on this roof, completely skipped the flashing part, choosing to instead caulk the corners with rubber lap sealants, and in some cases use the sealant to adhere membrane seams. As a result, most seams – even those that were glued together with rubber glue, partially or completely came apart.

In addition to a generally horrible roof installation practice used by the contractor, the home owner – Jim  - was very concerned about insulation screws being loose under the rubber roof and in some places penetrating the roof, cratering more leaks. Despite all the corner cutting and improper installation of the rubber roof, Jim had one advantage that kept his house more or less watertight, and without major roof leaks. The roof was built with a slight slope, which diverted all the water toward the through wall drain, while parapet walls kept the water from spilling over the roof edges.

Just as a side note, this house used to be a part of a larger building, which was partially demolished at some point in time. Its back wall now, used to be a separation firewall between different sections of the building. You can easily figure it out by looking a the brick on the front and back of the house. This brings up a mystery which I cannot solve: The through-wall drain is located in the back of the house where the old separation wall is now. Therefore, back when the house was bigger, all the water would flow to the adjacent section of the roof. Still it had to drain somewhere, otherwise the house would be completely flooded, and a roof could actually collapse under all that weight. I suppose there were through-roof drains which were buried / removed during one of the re-roofs and a through-wall drain was created when rear part of the building was removed. I will come back to this topic later on, when I’ll discuss the parapet walls on this house.

General roof details:

This was actually a very small roof (just over 400 sq. ft), which however took us more than 7 working days to complete. Most of this time was spent on preparation work and many repairs we had to perform, before the new 80-mil IB PVC flat roof membrane would go on. All these repairs had to be performed while maintaining roof water-tightness. Using tarps on this roof would be nearly impossible and time consuming to put up, because of the roofs shape. The roof has two round towers on the front, a “head-house” or a stairs walk out that leads to the roof in the center and parapet walls all around. In addition to all the given obstacles, to perform a quality roof installation we had to remove all siding and the door off the head house, and then put it all back together when roof was complete.

Roof installation – Day 0ne:

On the first day of roof installation was more like a test run, and we got rained out in the middle of the day. We started out the installation by removing the drip edge from the parapet walls and pulling back the rubber membrane to expose parapet walls. The reason for not just cutting rubber at the base of the roof and actually puling int back was discussed earlier – we had to keep roof watertight when we leave for the night and by maintaining a the old rubber intact, we could simply put back the flaps and attach them back to parapets, until we come back the next day. We also planned to install a 2×8 pressure treated (PT) wood nailer over the parapet walls, by attaching them with masonry anchors, and Liquid Nails adhesive (for additional rigidity). To our disappointment, over entire length of the parapet wall, the bricks were completely loose. Old mortar fell apart, damaged by age, moisture and other weather-related factors.

Between days 1 and 2 which were Friday and Monday, we went to install an IB roof that we sponsored for a Team Boston Solar Decathlon home with Solar PV roof. Since all construction on the Solar Home happened over weekend and the house needed a roof, to allow the crew to start work on the inside, we had to work all weekend to put on a new roof with a tapered insulation system.

The next day (Monday) we were back on the job site continuing work on the parapet wall repair.

As we dug deeper, it turned out that we had to replace at least 3 rows of brick mortar. We could not go any lower as that would create potentially disastrous situation with the old casted metals moldings installed on the outside of the parapets. This metal moldings were held in place by nails inserted into the brick joints. If we would remove another row of bricks, the metal would just come loose and fall to the ground in one piece. Fortunately as we dug deeper, the strength of mortar improved and we did not have to go down any more. Once the old brick was removed and old mortar, dirt / dust and other loose debris were vacuumed out, we could begin putting new mortar and bricks back. We had to wash and wire brush every brick, before it was laid back into the parapet wall. If you ask why not use new bricks – answer is very simple. The new bricks that you get from Home Depot or Lowe’s are junk. I could break on apart with my hands. Old bricks were of the exceptional quality and strength, and were solid brick (no cavities) which allowed us to securely attach masonry anchors later on in the roof installation.

Roof installation – days 2 through 5: brick work on parapet walls:

While maintaining rubber roof integrity, we replaced / repaired top 3 rows of brick parapet walls and performed all other prep work, while getting ready for the big push – complete removal of all rubber roofing and laying a new 80-mil IB PVC flat roofing system. The entire process had to be done in one day, so everything had to be ready. We removed old metal flashing, installed all wood nailer boards, membrane over parapet walls and drip edge before tearing off old rubber roof. Now the roof was ready.

At the end of day 5 we took down all th metal coping off the outside of the parapet walls. At this point it was dangerously hanging, nailed through the brick joints. One person would stand on the ground, making sure there were no pedestrians walking near the house while I was cutting the metal coping and taking it down in small sections. When all the metal was successfully removed, I was no longer worried that it may fall off on its own. Although we attached it to the rubber membrane over night with no chance of becoming loose, I still could not wait until the metal was completely removed.

Roof installation – days 6 & 7: installing IB roof and welding seams

Once everything was prepared, the actual roof installation took two days. First we laid down and mechanically attached all the membrane. All field seams were welded before any flashing work began. Once main membrane was installed we flipped down all the membrane that was already installed on parapets and welded it down to the main roof. Then the roof to wall flashing on the head house was installed, and it was now time to flash the chimney and at the same time make a new through-wall drain liner, so the water would run off the roof into the gutter which we later installed along the back wall of the house.

At the end of day 7, all roof flashing was welded together, roof attic vents and membrane vents installed, the door was put back on the roof entrance and everything was watertight. All we had to do now is to come back one more time to install the new commercial 6″ gutter and 4×3″ downspouts.

Although this roof took twice as long as originally planed, we had enough time to fix everything and get the roof ready and now it will perform flawlessly, protecting this house from water and reducing the inside temperatures in the summer, thanks to roof’s cool white surface.

Here is what Jim (the homeowner) has to say:

Hi Leo,

I’m writing to pass on my thanks. The new IB roof is a vast improvement over the poorly installed rubber one that preceded it. It was also a great idea to swap in some of the heavier IB for the main floor area. I can tell how solid and rugged it is.

I can also confirm that it’s working, believe it or not. There was a section of wall in the upstairs hallway which had gotten damp, to the point that paint had begun to peel there. I’m likely going to replace the sheet-rock at that spot anyway, to be safe. But it is now bone-dry! We’ll see how it goes, but it seems to be off to a promising start.

I much appreciate the thoroughness and quality of your worksmanship, and that of your crew.

All the Best,
Jim

Recently we finished installing an aluminum standing seam metal on a residential home in Wayland, Massachusetts. The roof is made of .032 Aluminum, coated with grey finish Kynar 500 coating. It is a 1.5″ snap-lock standing seam, attached with stainless steel clips and wood screws. Also, as you can see, there is a rail snow retention system which I will describe in detail bellow. It consists of cast-aluminum mounts attached to ribs of the standing seams roof and two rows stainless steel cross bars (rails) to hold snow and ice from sliding off the roof.

Originally, the homeowner was having bad problems with Ice dams and roof leaks. Originally roof had “ice belt” made of copper, but it only covered the bottom 2 feet of the roof and as we discovered later, during a roof tear-off, it was tucked under the shingles above it by only 2-3 inches. Needles to say, this copper ice-belt did not work as it was intended to and the ice dams were still creating leaks. After a while, to solve the Ice Dams, home owner installed large sheets of aluminum.

These were new and improved ice belt sheets, and Ice dams were no longer as bad of a problem. But now, after each winter storm, snow would accumulate on the roof, and as the heat from the attic (which was the original cause of Ice dams) heated and melded snow, which then re-froze, large pieces of Ice and Snow would avalanche off the roof, taking down the gutters with them. This was also a serious safety hazard for people living in the house and those visiting it in the winter. Home owner – Glenn – attempted to solve this problem by attaching improvised snow guards to the sheets of aluminum, but those came down after the next snow storm, together with Ice and Snow that accumulated on the roof.

After a few winters of cleaning snow off the roof, after each snow storm and fixing gutters after each winter season, Glenn was ready for a new roof. He was looking for a permanent, maintenance free roof that would be water tight, would not be affected by ice dams and a snow retention system that would prevent all the ice and snow from sliding off the upper portion of this gambler roof, and taking down the gutter system with it.

The roof:

As mentioned before, the new roof had to be maintenance free, resistance to ice dams, last a  very long time and to prevent snow and ice from falling off. Basically, functionality was the main concern for Glenn, yet a good curb appeal was also important. A standing seam metal roofing system system with energy efficient Cool Roof coating was chosen. Standing seam has no horizontal seams, thus a there would be no water back ups (which are a common problem related to ice dams on asphalt shingle roofs), and would would just run off the roof panels.

Stifening ribs were added to roof panels for additional rigidity and to minimize oil-canning that is common to to long standing seam panels.

Obstacles and challenges:

Although the roof is considered walkable and may seem easy from at first, there were numerous challenges we had to overcome during the installation and it is best to foresee these challenge beforehand, so they don’t pop-up unexpectedly during, and cause installation delays, and possible change orders (those unexpected charges that many contractors bring to the homeowner in the middle of the job). Despite predicting most of those obstacles during the initial roof inspection, I still missed a few minor things, which we took care of without having to have the uncomfortable “change order” conversation.

Main thing that came up during initial roof inspection was the fact that we could not install properly install roof to wall flashing around dormers, unless we pulled off the aluminum siding. At the same time we could not pull off the siding without damaging it, therefore it was decided to install new vinyl siding instead of old aluminum.

Another challenge would be the actual roof-to-wall flashing around dormers. Because of very steep slope on the lower part of the gambler roof, the angle bottom angle of roof to wall flashing was almost 140 degrees, and because of added height of 1.5″ ribs, these flashings would take a very long time to be done.

Installation of standing seam metal roof:

While we were waiting for the metal roof panels to be produced by our supplier, we had to remove old roofing shingles down to the deck. Installing a standing seam metal roof over asphalt shingles is just wrong, although some roofing contractors up in NH, ME and VT do it all the time and with steel panel too. Problem with doing that is such that shingles will punch horizontal lines in the metal roof panels, making it look ver unattractive. Second, and more serious problem is that granules in the asphalts shingles will rub against the underside of the metal panel, eventually scratching off the galvanic coating and causing the metal to rust in  multiple places. This would not be a problem for aluminum standing seam panels, but roofer that would install standing seam over shingles just don’t use aluminum as it is considerably more expensive for them and extra inventory would just sit unneeded.

Additionally, after removing the old roof down to the deck, we were able to replace any rotten wood that would otherwise be covered over with a lifetime metal roof.

Once the old asphalt shingles were removed and all rotten rood replaced, it was time for the underlayment. Underlayment is an essential part of a metal roof and also it will protect the roof, until metal roofng panels are installed. Because those are not always available to you right away – as was the case for us and we had to wait 2 weeks for panels to be made – the underlayment must keep the roof completely watertight until the metal roof installation is complete.

Because of such high requirements for the underlayment, we use exclusively and religiously the only underlayment that we find to work for us – GAF DeckArmor. It is a breathable synthetic underlayment ate is very strong, slip resistant, light-weight and make working with it a pleasure (unlike tar paper and other synthetic underlayments). Also, a very important factor for us is the breath-ability. It allows the moisture trapped between roof deck and underlayment to pass through and to run off the upper site of Deck-Armor, instead of creating rot and mold in the attic. This extends the life of wooden roof deck considerably, and is an integral component of the metal roofs we install.

Once all the prep war is done, the actual roof installation goes somewhat fast. There is a common confusion that I find among people contacting us about a metal roof. For some reason, most people thing standing seam roof is easy to install. This is actually very far from being true. Unless the roof is a straight run without any penetrations or obstacles, the standing seam roof take the longest to install with considerable waste if there are valleys and hips involved.

Because any penetration or flashing requires cutting the panel and using a z-bar, details take double the time that it would take if we were installing and aluminum metal shingles roof. Also, unless roof is relatively low pitch (3 or 4) it is nearly impossible to walk on panels and putting up staging such as roof jacks is out of the question. Fortunately this roof was low slope at the top, and bottom we were able to install off ladders – just like siding.

As I mentioned in the beginning, that falling snow and ice was on of the main issues we had to address and we had to get a heavy-duty snow retention system – the E-Rail for Berger Roofing Accessories.

Once the snow guards were in place, we could finish installing the chimney flashing, remove the fall protection systems and install ridge caps. Roof installation was complete and now the Ice Dams, rain and falling snow are not a problem any more for this residential home in the beautiful Wayland, Massachusetts.

If you need a metal or low slope roof installed anywhere in Massachusetts, Rhode Island or Connecticut, feel free to call us – 888-635-2876 or fill out the free roofing quote online form, to get schedule a roof inspection and estimate.

You can also use our interactive roofing calculator to estimate the cost of aluminum shingles ar standing seam metal roofing and compare it to asphalt shingles, cedar shakes, slate and tile roofs.

When a flat roof begins to leak, repairing it usually will get you about 3 months, after which it will leak again. This is especially true for roofs such as built-up tar and gravel, rolled asphalt or modified bitumen, because these roofs degrade with time, and start to leak because of material failure, seam adhesive breaking down, ponding water and in some cases, faulty roof installation. Hence, if possible, I recommend avoiding roof repair all together as it is in my opinion a waste of money in most cases.

Jump to:

• Our rubber roof repair services – overview of what we will do to professionally fix your roof
• Cost of rubber roof repair – learn what we charge to fix your roof.

Video example of a rubber roof repair in Cambridge, MA

This video shows about how much roof repair work we can do in 2 hours, and what’s involved i a rubber roof repair.

Rubber roofs are different, and although the whole EPDM rubber roofing system is inherently flawed (IMHO) because it relies solely on adhesive (seam glue, primers, peel-and-stick tapes, etc.), the membrane itself will not break down for many years, so even if it begins to leak you can often salvage the roof by doing a roof repair, fixing the seams, installing new flashing at skylights, chimneys and other protrusions. With the recent move of EPDM roofing industry to peel and stick accessories, you can expect the seams to last at least a couple of years longer than older black glue seams.

We now offer rubber roof repair service in Massachusetts, Rhode Island & Connecticut

We understand that money can be tight and you want to get as much out of your roof as you can or maybe you do not want a new roof at all or just waiting unlit finances allow for it. Although we will never install a new rubber roof because we consider it to be inferior, we can professionally repair your existing rubber roof, at a reasonable cost and highest workmanship standards.

If you need to stop roof leaks now, and have a repair that will last, or want to get a some more time out of your rubber roof, until you are ready to have a new IB PVC roof installed, or just need a quick and inexpensive fix, we will professionally repair your rubber roof using the best materials, and will pay special attention to details, to make sure you get the best repair that will last.

If your roof is located anywhere in southern New England – Massachusetts, Connecticut or Rhode Island, we will come to you, inspect your roof and perform repairs during the first visit.

Here is how it works:

Our initial roof inspection includes looking for all the sources of leaks, identifying wet insulation, ponding water problems, rotten roof decking and most economical ways to fix your roof related problems. We will also perform a roof repair during the first visit, using only the best (yes, most expensive) rubber roof accessories such as Peel-and-Stick flashing, seam tape, Peel and Stick cover tape and will use if necessary, reinforced rubber membrane. We will not use the cheap, and outdated rubber flashings that are installed using black rubber glue (Rubber Seam Adhesive) unless it is necessary.

PLEASE NOTE: We do not want there to be any confusion about Peel-n-Stick rubber roofing accessories. Peel and Stick is better, lasts longer and costs about 3 time more than regular, non peel and stick accessories, which are installed with black rubber glue.

What we will do during our rubber roof repair visit:

• We will look for all possible sources of roof leaks – seam adhesive failures, flashing failures, ponding water, etc.
• We will perform up-to 1.5 hours of repair work using ONLY Peel and Stick flashings and accessories.
• If after 1.5 hours of roof repair work, there is more repairs to be done, we will identify problem areas to you and will give you a price to perform those repair. If agreed upon, we will continue with repair work, or will come back at your discretion.
• During roof repair, we will thoroughly clean the the area of repair using water and brush to get heavy dirt off, and then with Rubber Membrane cleaner to remove any carbon settlement and other contaminants that will prevent a proper adhesion of slashing membrane to the roof. We will not use gasoline to clean the repair area, as it is against the manufacturers requirements (although membrane cleaner costs about 10 times more than gasoline).
• We will identify thing that in our professional opinion need to be done to extend the service life of your roof, and will think of the lease expensive ways to do it.

Cost of roof repair:

The cost of initial visit, roof inspection and TWO hours of repair work is $350 if roof is located within a 50 miles form North Attleboro, MA. If your roof is located further than 50 miles from our office, we will charge an additional $50 for added travel.

Cost of additional repairs will be determined on site and you will get either verbal or written quote. If agree, we can either perform repairs while there or come back at a later time.

Warranty:

Because of variety of rubber membrane manufacturers, different age of rubber roofs and as a general industry practice, we (nor do any legit and reputable roofing contractor) do not warranty a roof repair. However, we will perform the repair service to the best of our ability, not only because we want your potential future business and value our reputation, but also as a homeowner, I personally know what it’s like to hire a bad contractor, and do not want my customers to experience it when doing business with us.

Schedule rubber roof repair now, or call: 617-444-9020

Roof repair service: $350 flat fee for 2 hours of roof repair including peel-and-stick rubber flashing materials. Any work after initial 2 hours will be discussed and priced accordingly.

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You can also request an estimate to replace your existing roof. Select one or more products. You can select multiple products by clicking on multiple boxes.

IB Standard Membrane: IB 50-mil White IB 80-mil White/Color IB 80-mil ChemGuard

IB Specialty Membrane: IB DeckShield IB Tradition Classics IB Solar PV Roof

Other Roofing products: Metal Roofing (Standing seam, Steel or Aluminum Metal shingles) Thermo White Spray-On Roofs (For steel standing seam)

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Additional roof repair information

How to request a rubber roof repair or IB roof installation:

You can either call us at our toll free number – 617-444-9020 or fill out our roof estimate request and specify that you need a rubber roof repair service performed.

You can also use our interactive roofing price calculator to estimate the cost of your roof replacement and compare the IB PVC roofing systems prices to Built-up roofing, Tar and gravel and EPDM rubber roof cost.

Other roof repair resources:

If you do  not live in MA, CT or RI, or want to try repairing your rubber roof yourself, we’ve created two detailed how-to guides:

1 – Our original Rubber roof repair guide that focuses on fixing a roof using rubber membrane adhesive (black glue).

2 – Our second EPDM rubber diy guide that is focused on using Peel-and-Stick flashing, seam tape and cover strip.

Additional information if you’re considering to fix the roof yourself:

While fixing the roof yourself may be a good choice if you are handy and want to save some money, the “save some money” part is what you need to consider.

All rubber roof accessories such as flashing tape, patches, seam tape, adhesive, membrane cleaner, rubber primer, etc., are sold in contractor quantities – usually 100 feet rolls, or 1 gallon cans, so if you need to just patch a skylight, you can easily spend 250-350 between all the tools (membrane roller, seam probe, etc.), shipping costs and so on. In the end you will be left with 95 feet of flashing material and nearly full cans of cleaner, primer and adhesive, which you won’t be able to return and probably will not need any time soon. At the same time, your firs repair has a high chance of leaking fairly soon because of lack of experience in fixing rubber roofs.

You may also purchase something that you will actually not need, or the wrong type of flashing as there so many choices. This happened to me a few time even considering that I am a roofer.

We now have a new, dedicated website that covers EPDM rubber roof repair ONLY – Massachusetts Rubber Roofing – there you will learn more about EPDM rubber roofing material, detailed DIY rubber roof repair guide, and complete EPDM roof installation how-to guide.

Rubber roofing is a popular choice for low slope and flat roof construction, because relatively inexpensive, and “does not require any special training” on the part of roofing contractor, to be able to offer it to the customer and install. Do understand  that actual installation of rubber roofs is somewhat complicated and requires experience with flat roofing to install it correctly. However anyone can buy rubber roof form a roofing supplier and install it, without being certified by the manufacturer. Discover how many residential roofing contractors “learn” to install a rubber roof, nature and limitations of EPDM roofing membrane and why we recommend that you avoid putting rubber roof on your house. Since manufacturer’s certification is not required, many roofing contractors with little or zero experience in flat roofing, can and do install rubber roofs. However, without contractor’s proper installation training training and experience, such roofs begin to leak very soon after being installed. Discover the secrets of residential flat roofing market and contractors installing EPDM membrane or simply rubber roofing.

See what’s involved in doing rubber roof repair your self:

Repair rubber roof yourself or hire a professional?

As a home or small business owner you should understand that to perform a repair of your rubber roof you will need to buy special supplies needed for the repair and allocate at least 3-4 hours on a sunny or at least dry day, with no rain in the next 12 hours, to allow the repaired patch or seam to cure and become watertight. Here is a list of supplies and approximate prices you can expect to pay to acquire these supplies form a commercial roofing supplier such as ABC Supply, Beacon Supply, Bradco or Harvey Building Products. Your local Home Depot or Lowe’s will not have rubber roofing so don’t waste your time there.

Rubber roof material prices

• Black Glue – $35-40 / Gallon
• Membrane Cleaner – $25 / Gallon
• Rubber Primer – $29 / Gallon
• 50′ x 6″ roll of peel & stick  FLASHING tape (uncured)  - $109
• 100′ x 6″ roll of  peel & stick cover tape – $179
• 100′ x 3″ roll of seam tape – $79
• 2″ silicon or steel roller – $25-45
• Tube of seam caulking (30 ln. ft. coverage) – $9.50

These supplies are ONLY sold in “contractor” quantities, and you cannot buy 10 feet of tape or 1 quart of Rubber primer. The list above is a minimum quantity you can purchase. As you can see, you will easily spend $200-300 just on supplies and you will also need a ladder and of course your time (usually a weekend). Hire us to fix your rubber roof in MA, CT and RI: If you do not feel confident that you can fix your rubber roof or lack certain equipment, or do not want to purchase supplies that you will never use again, you can call us 1-888-6-Flat-Roof (888-635-2876) or fill out our online rubber roof repair request form. Here is how we charge for rubber roof repair. The service call fee is $350 and includes up-to 50-mile drive (one way) and an hour of repair work. We provide the supplies such as peel-n-stick tape and cleaners and adhesives, etc. Each additional hour is $95. Usually a small to medium repair is done in one or two hours. So for $445 (two hour of on-the roof repair work) you will have your roof professionally repaired, won’t waste your entire weekend and will not end-up with unused, unusable, non-returnable materials and supplies, while still wandering if your did the repair correctly. If you still want to do the repair yourself, keep on reading.

DIY how-to guide to repair rubber roof:

The default rubber roof installation method of 1970′s-1990′s and that of today’s shady roofing contractors looking to save every penny, instead of providing quality products and workmanship, is using Black Glue instead of peel-and-stick membrane tape. While black glue was in wide-spread use a decade ago as it was the only way to seal the rubber seams, it has been replaced by more efficient way, using seam tapes with peel and stick surface, which is activated by rubber primer, and creates a much better bond than a black glue can. This guide will describe how-to procedures to fix seams and flashing using Peel & Stick tape – both cured and uncured/flashing tape. To learn how to repair your roof using less expensive (and less reliable) black glue method, refer to our original rubber roof repair guide.

Tools you will need:

Seam probe, silicone / steel roller, scissors, clean rags, sharp utility knife, ladder to get on a roof, broom to clean loose dirt off the roof and squeejee with a body of warm water.

Finding the roof leak:

Flat roofs usually leak where there is ponding water, through the seams or near a roof penetration.

I assume that you have already purchased needed tools, accessories and membrane cleaned + primer, etc., and are now ready to  identified where the leaks are, using a probe tool or a nail. Step one – Clean the roof: Using a wide semi-soft broom, clean the roof of large pieces of debris. Use a water hose to wash other loose debris and dirt off the roof – this will help to soak the dirt and it will come off easier. Wipe the roof dry with a squeegee. Note: You do not need to wash the entire roof. Just the low spots where there is biggest chance to find a leak. You can also use soft wet cloth to soak and wipe clean the seams, so you could test them with a probe. There is a good chance that you can find a break in the seam without using a probe tool – these are usually very obvious. Step two – open up the seams: Assuming that you’ve found a leak that is coming through the seam,stick your probe in gently, making sure not to damage the rubber. Pull the seam apart about a foot in each direction from the spot suspected to leak. Make sure that there won’t be any rain coming soon, otherwise you may not have enough time to seal the roof.

If your seams are not very long – 20 0r 30 feet, it might make sense to open up entire seam and to seal it completely with seam tape, as this will greatly increase the effectiveness of your repair, rather than just doing 2-3 feet of seams.

Step three – clean the seams:

Using clean piece of cloth soaked with membrane cleaner, wipe both sides of the open seam, in and around it. Make sure u clean the edge of the seam opening. Make sure you get all the old glue off, before proceeding to the next step. Use something thin to get the cloth into the corners of two pieces of rubber membrane. Put a small block of wood inside the seam to let the cleaner dry. Once again, I will recommend to open up the entire seam to be able to better lean each side of overlapping rubber. This will allow you to get a better, continuous adhesion.

Step four – sealing the seam: If you opened the entire seam up (preferred method), brush on the rubber primer, making sure that it covers area wider that your seam tape – this will provide better adhesion, without any laps and lips. Put primer on both sides of the membrane.

If you only opened a couple of feet of seam, cut a piece of seam tape that is just about the same length as the opening. Using a paint brush, put generous amount of primer on both top and bottom lap of rubber membrane, making sure to get it all the way into the cracks of the seam.

Step 4.1 – installing seam tape:

After both sides of the seam laps are primed, starting at the end of the seam, unroll the seam tape, without removing the top paper. Try to be as straight as you can. It your tape starts to zig-zag left and right, it will create wrinkles and may pose a risk of leaks. Also your tape has to stick out from under the top lap, by about 3/8 of an inch, to ensure better adhesion. Make sure that it is not hidden under top lap, ans that also can create leaks down the road. you can use yellow chalk or special yellow pencil (sold at roofing supply warehouses) to mark the outer edge of the overlap plus 3/8″. Once you unroll the needed length of seam tape, fold over the top ply of the membrane and start removing the paper from upper side of seam tape.

If your seam tape is too short, and you need to splice two pieces of seam tape, overlap the my two inches, making sure that you prime both sides of each piece of seam tape before splicing (just the end 3-4 inches, as the res of the seam should already have primer). Once the needed length of seam tape is installed, flatten the top layer of the rubber membrane and roll it in, starting at one end and making sure not to miss a spot. Put some weight on that roller, but also don’t go too crazy. Too much rolling may make your wrist hurt.

Viola – your seam repair is complete! PS. Pictures used for this article were taken at a contractor training class on rubber roof installation, set up by Harvey Industries and RPI.